Visa Run Orchestra

If La Bianca belongs to sunset, Agung Beach Club belongs to the morning: breakfast on the sand, Mount Agung across the water and the easygoing island world of Papa Louis and Yanti.

Created by Fanny and Morgan, La Bianca is a beachfront Lembongan restaurant where chef Nicolas Codani’s Mediterranean cooking meets one of the island’s great pleasures: dinner beneath the trees at sunset.

A modest burger joint in Jungut Batu, an excellent homemade bun, a perfectly smashed patty and one dangerously subjective conclusion: JJ’s may serve my favourite burger in Bali.

I thought the demolition of old Bingin Beach had taken Lucky Fish with it. Then the team, the smiles and, most importantly, that extraordinary grilled squid reappeared in Uluwatu.

Behind one of Berawa’s busiest roads survives a quiet Japanese garden, a home kitchen and pottery studio where Yumiko has created something increasingly rare in Canggu: a place that asks you to slow down.

A little corner of France in the heart of Seminyak. Chef François is where I go when Bali suddenly makes me miss proper cheese, charcuterie, homemade French classics and the kind of sandwich that tastes like home.

A charming roadside café on the climb towards Bedugul where Ibu Kadek’s homemade food, preserves and wonderfully warm hospitality have become reason enough for me to take the road north.

A tiny noodle warung on Batu Bolong, a food-obsessed founder and bowls of homemade Sichuan-style noodles that have developed an inconvenient tendency to appear in my dreams.