Visa Run Orchestra

A tiny noodle warung on Batu Bolong, a food-obsessed founder and bowls of homemade Sichuan-style noodles that have developed an inconvenient tendency to appear in my dreams.

If La Bianca belongs to sunset, Agung Beach Club belongs to the morning: breakfast on the sand, Mount Agung across the water and the easygoing island world of Papa Louis and Yanti.

I thought the demolition of old Bingin Beach had taken Lucky Fish with it. Then the team, the smiles and, most importantly, that extraordinary grilled squid reappeared in Uluwatu.

A little corner of France in the heart of Seminyak. Chef François is where I go when Bali suddenly makes me miss proper cheese, charcuterie, homemade French classics and the kind of sandwich that tastes like home.

Created by Fanny and Morgan, La Bianca is a beachfront Lembongan restaurant where chef Nicolas Codani’s Mediterranean cooking meets one of the island’s great pleasures: dinner beneath the trees at sunset.

A modest burger joint in Jungut Batu, an excellent homemade bun, a perfectly smashed patty and one dangerously subjective conclusion: JJ’s may serve my favourite burger in Bali.

Behind one of Berawa’s busiest roads survives a quiet Japanese garden, a home kitchen and pottery studio where Yumiko has created something increasingly rare in Canggu: a place that asks you to slow down.

A charming roadside café on the climb towards Bedugul where Ibu Kadek’s homemade food, preserves and wonderfully warm hospitality have become reason enough for me to take the road north.